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EUROPEAN SILK FORUM 30.04.2009 22:58

Mr. Alberto Clerici (Teseo SpA), the Vice-President of the Silk Section of AIUFFASS, opened the meeting and welcomed the entrepreneurs coming from France, Italy, Switzerland and United
He read the message that he had received from Mr. Olivier Fournier, the former President of European Silk Forum, a few days ago:
"Dear Friends,
Let me wish you all the best for the next AIUFFASS congress in Istanbul. I am sure that despite the tough
times with the international economical situation, the congress will be a success. Do not forget that two of
many other old nicknames of Istanbul are Vasilevousa Polis (the Queen of Cities), which rose from the city's
importance and wealth throughout the Middle Ages; and Dersaadet, originally Der-i Saadet (the Door to
Happiness) which was first used towards the end of 19th century and is still remembered today. I hope this will help.
Best regards. Olivier Fournier"
He recalled the substantial support given by the former President to the development of ESF since
he was appointed in Como, October 2006.
He introduced Philippe de Montgrand (Sfate et Combier), who just came to be elected as the
President of the Silk Section of AIUFFASS during the previous meeting. He remembered that, on
the basis of ESF Statutes, the President of the Silk Section of AIUFFASS is the President of the
European Silk Forum (see Art. 7).
Clerici therefore gave the floor to Philippe de Montgrand.
The new President thanked for the trust received by the Assembly.
He underlined the importance of improving the platform for the exchange of information and
experiences among European Silk Entrepreneurs. Since it was settled, in 2005, European Silk
Forum has become a real point of reference for the industry. Philippe de Montgrand expressed his
commitment in keeping the silk flag flying through ESF.
The Assembly thanked him.
The President introduced point 1) of the agenda.
Paolo De Ponti (PDP Seta Srl) developed his speech, describing the impact of global financial
crisis on Chinese silk agriculture and industry. Strong quantities reductions are affecting silkworm
eggs, as well as the production of cocoons and raw silk. Several reeling mills are closing in
Zhejiang. Also demand is very weak, especially for Europe and Japan. The price of raw silk has
increased approximately from 25,00 to 30,00 USD/KG.
The level seems to be stable now but the future depends, of course, also on the possibility that one
of the two sides of the market will prevail.

With no debate, the Chairman of the meeting introduced Mr. Patrick Genoud (Desco De
Schultess) for the following point.
In his introduction, Mr. Genoud underlined the deep difference between market structure in China
and Brazil. In Brazil the two existing reeling mills are entirely driving the supply, financing the
farmers and providing them with the silkworm eggs. This allows them to have a much better grip on
the quality than Chinese filatures and makes them better shaped to get through the existing
turmoil. Then the Vice-President of ESF projected some slides, representing the supply situation
in Brasil. The developments are quite similar to the ones recorded in China, i.e. a reduction in
sericultural activity (less silkworm farmers), smaller output of wet cocoons and lower silk yarn
production. However, as can be seen on slide four (comparison of wet cocoon and silk yarn
production between current and previous year) the decrease in wet cocoon production is less
important than the reduction in number of silkworm farmers, indicating a rising productivity for the
farmers remaining active in sericulture; with regard to the silk yarn production, the decrease in the
forecast for 2009 reflects the current consumption trend of the world's silk market
Philippe de Montgrand introduced point 3) of the agenda.
Mr. Guido Tettamanti introduced the statistics quoted by official agencies covering the exports of
silk fabrics in China, Italy, France, India and South Korea during 2008. Increasing demand for
Chinese loomstate and boiled off fabrics in Europe has offset substantial losses recorded
especially in India.
The speaker invited also Swiss and British delegations to provide their figures for future reports.
The Chairman introduced point 4) of the agenda.
Mr. Tettamanti declared that China Silk Association is arranging "2009 China International Silk
Forum", which will take place in Hangzhou, next Mid October, in the framework of "2009 China
International Silk Fair". The Forum is scheduled two days, one for discussion and the second for
visiting the fair and silk dyeing and printing mills.
Last ISF which the Europeans attended was in 2006 and it was a failure. The Chinese made
proposals about electronic inspection for raw silk and claimed to have found the solutions without
any previous debate with foreign silk people. No European delegation was arranged in 2007.
Cooperation has improved since October 2006, discussion is open now, but Mr. Tettamanti
announced that the Italian delegation is not going to take part in "2009 China ISF". Unilateral
approach is still evident in launching the event.
Swiss and French delegations have expressed their agreement.
Mr. Genoud invited ESF attendants to come to Switzerland, next Mid November. The meeting will
be arranged around Zuerich, as it was in November 2007.

The Assembly thanked the Swiss delegation.
Mr. Genoud proposed Mr. Gilbert (Henry Bertrand) to arrange an ESF meeting and asked UK
association to become a member of AIUFFASS, in order to support ESF fully, as it happens with
France, Italy and Switzerland.
Mr. Gilbert promised to introduce the proposal in UK association.
The Chairman introduced point 5) of the agenda.
Report on silk Electronic measure system.
Mr. Clerici declared that the system for electronic control Keisokki Classifault Tri Chord Flex with
12 (twelve) positions was installed c/o Centro Tessile Serico spa consortile, on March 2009.
The system is substantially identical to the one installed in China, c/o Jiaxing Idea Co. Ltd., the CIQ
in Hangzhou and the Silk Standard Committee (this last one with 5 (five) positions).
The System, installed in Como, has further improved, as far as electronic devices of data
processing and transmission are concerned, while sensors are exactly like those installed in China.
Keisokki technicians are now working at the alignment of both Chinese and Europe systems to
assure the reproducibility of results obtained from the different instruments.
A set of interlaboratory tests has been started. Systems are testing more samples from the same
silk lot and exchanging samples to compare results in order to obtain them identical.
We expect to complete and obtain the results of this operation within next 4 months.
In the meantime technicians will prepare one or more standard methods, detailing sampling
aspects and sample preparation.
A draft of the standard will be available within next 8 (eight) months and it will be possible to start
any standardization formal requests (es.: CEN and ISO).
Through data processing on many silk lots, it will be possible to acquire knowledge about the
results variability of the measured performances and their effective incidence on quality in
transformation processes and materials (yarns and fabrics) produced.
At the end of the study of these data, we'll achieve a new classification method.
For such a target, at least one year of studying and testing will be needed.
From now on, it is anyway possible, to perform tests using the new electronic system.
Mario Cantaluppi (Successori Giuseppe Cattaneo SpA) described the strong Commitment of
Centro Tessile Serico in supporting the strategy, even in financial terms. It will be difficult to respect
the budget and he asked French and Swiss delegations to consider the possibility to provide some
financial support.
Jacques Poulenard (Tissage Perrin et Fils) declared Intersoie had invited CTS officials to go to
Lyon in order to refer the developments. They are supposed to meet Intersoie by the end of July.
On that occasion the French delegation will give the answer
Study of a new type of silk impurity.
Mr. Clerici finally added that Ufficio Italiano Seta, together with Stazione Sperimentale per la Seta
and Centro Tessile Serico, have studied a pollution problem that has recently begun to affect silk
fabrics, particularly light coloured and white articles, and now is becoming increasingly frequent to

For this purpose 36 samples of raw silk, purchased from several textile companies in various
product forms, were investigated: these were raw fabrics, raw silk hanks, twisted yarns for various
kinds of fabrics showing sporadic impurities.
A preliminary study of pollution materials was performed by a morphological analysis via Optical
Microscopy, Stereomicroscopy (MO) AND Scanning Elecrton Microscopy (SEM). On the basis of
the results obtained, microchemical analysis and solubility test were performed and a
representative sample of the pollutant investigated by means of Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR)
interfaced to Microscopy and Thermiogravimetry (TGA).
In the polluted areas the samples showed presence of apparently continuous strips of impurities of
various length along the yarn longitudinal axis, which sometimes became no longer visible
changing light direction.
The analytical investigations showed presence of two types of impurities:
· Impurity (a): of a highly pigment-like nature, discontinuous, showing presence of
black/greyish particles containing iron, probably caused by contact with wet and oxide iron
parts, or with liquids rich in iron oxide (reeling water, vapours, etc.).
· Impurity (b): consisting of a rubber-like substance and often involving the silk filaments, of
an ochre/brownish colour due to (mainly) protein and lipid organic substances, probably
originating from negronati, rust or stained cocoons.
In both cases, the most suitable treatments for complete dirt removal have been studied.
In particular, special (corrective) techniques have been worked out in order to obtain a perfectly
clean silk material in relation with its final use, either following a simple procedure as a complete
deep degumming or adopting a more complex system to preserve, when necessary, the raw effect
of the silk material.
The Assembly thanked Alberto Clerici.
Both the electronic measure system and the research on silk impurity will be foreseen in the
agenda of next ESF meeting.
ESF Statutes.
The President recalled that, according to Art. 9 of the Statutes, the Executive Board consists of 3
members, representing the three European countries actually involved in the European Silk Forum.
He suggested to widen it from 3 to 5 members, two from France, two from Italy and one from
Switzerland, in order to promote a bigger participation in the managing of ESF.
Both the Swiss and the Italian delegations accepted the proposal of Mr. Philippe de Montgrand.
A change of Statutes is necessary. It will be adopted during next meeting in Switzerland.
Before ending the meeting at 12,15 the President thanked all the participants.
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